10 Styling Tips for Fine Natural Hair

Nike Anderson
Mar 6, 2016
4 min read

I didn't realize I had fine hair until I was four years into my natural hair journey. I was misled to believe that only people with looser curl patterns or thinning hair could have fine strands. Since my hair is fairly dense and tightly coiled, I mistakingly assumed my tresses were thick. However, I soon encountered many problems after following the advice of thick-haired naturals whose texture could withstand the regimens they suggested.

Ten years later, I now know better. And I’m joining other well-informed naturals in passing on the knowledge. Having fine hair simply means that your individual hair strands are smaller in diameter than a single string of thread. It doesn't necessarily mean that your hair is thin or damaged. And it certainly isn't limited to those with looser curl patterns. Many people, like myself, have very dense yet fine hair. This means that it can easily be mistaken for thick hair when not observed closely.

Knowing my hair type has been an integral part of my healthy hair journey. With this knowledge, I know which products and regimens are best for my hair. I also gain the power of knowing which styles are most flattering. As a naturalista with fine hair, I like to choose styles that give my hair a voluminous appearance. This is especially true when my hair reaches a certain length and the weight of my strands, at times, make my hair look flat and limp. Here are ten ways that I make the most out of my fine natural hair.

1. Don’t twist too tightly. When wearing mini twists, I don't twist my hair too tightly. This allows my twists to expand and create more volume. It even prevents "scalpy-looking" styles. I also use this trick for regular two-strand twists, flat-twists, and even braids. The looser they are, the more volume I have!

2. Layer puffs. To create the illusion of a fuller puff or ponytail, I layer one puff on top of another. I sometimes have to fluff my hair a bit to hide the line of demarcation. I’ve also used hairpins and banana-clips to create fuller puffs and ponytails. For hairpins, I simply pin my hair into the shape of a puff. No elastic hairbands needed!

3. Curl those ends. Whenever I’m setting my hair for a braidout or twistout, I make sure to curl the ends of my braid or twist with a roller. This trick not only helps me avoid scraggily ends, but also makes my hair look more voluminous after take-down.

4. Use a banana-clip. To make my buns look fuller, I sometimes opt for a banana-clip. The banana-clip increases the width of my bun while still offering the same smooth finish that I’d get with a ponytail holder. Plus, the banana-clip is gentler on my edges.

5. Forget bone-straight hair. Whenever I wear my natural hair straightened, I usually opt for bouncy pin-curls instead of the sleek look. Not that I have anything against the bone-straight look. It just doesn’t give my hair the same volume that putting a few curls in it gives. And when I’m not pin-curling, I wear my hair in a bun overnight to create effortless beach waves by morning.

6. Embrace the frizz. Frizzy hair gives me some of the best buns because the expansion of my strands is like natural padding. On frizzy hair days, I can just about triple the size of my buns without using a banana clip or added “fillers.”

7. Don't re-twist hairbands. When pulling my hair into a puff or pony, I don’t re-twist the ponytail holder to make it tighter. This is because a tighter ponytail mean less volume. I simply place the hairband onto my hair once-over without pulling it taut. The texture of my hair holds it into place, but sometimes I add a hairpin for extra security.

8. Wear more updos. Pulling all of my hair to the top of my head is one of my main tricks to make my hair look more voluminous. I simply guide my hair with my hands and pin it into place. No ponytail holders, no elastic hairbands, no knee highs. I only use hairpins because I can control the desired volume and sleekness without sacrificing my edges.

9. Add dimension. Adding dimension to my puff, ponytail, and/or bun always creates the illusion of fuller hair. Pompadours, flat-twists, and/or braids are great ways to enhance these simple hairdos while creating the extra volume I’m looking for.

10. Rock my natural texture. Braidouts and twistouts are great, but my hair looks its fullest when it’s shrunken and in its natural state. The longer my hair gets, the more I embrace the shrinkage of my curls, which gives my hair a nice compact look when styled.